D e s e r t E x p o s u r e
February 2010
The Queen of Cakes
In what may be the golden age of creative cake-making, Stephanie Baumann brings a little flour-and-frosting magic to Las Cruces.
By Jeff Berg
Stephanie Baumann and Marie Antoinette don't really have anything in common, other than sharing the same phrase, albeit in completely different contexts.
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Stephanie Baumann and her cake creations. |
Marie Antoinette is wrongly credited with having uttered the phrase, "Let them eat cake," in reference to the starving and rioting peasant class of France — not long before her, shall we say, untimely demise wherein she found that she had misplaced her head.
Stephanie Baumann, on the other hand, uses that memorable phrase much more handily as the name of her professional cake-decorating business.
"Cake decorating and I are a good match," she says. "It chose me; I did not choose it."
Baumann started her business at Las Cruces' Bosa Donuts, but is now part of Barb's Flowerland, where she has her complete operation housed in the back of one of Las Cruces' more popular florists, which is owned by her mother.
Business is good. And rightfully so, as Baumann takes the art of cake decorating to a whole new level — or layer, if you will.
A onetime writer, she has been in the baking business, full time, since 2001 or so. She stays remarkably busy for someone with such an unusual line of work.
"I've actually been doing this most of my life, since my grandmother made cakes all the time." Baumann says. "I learned from her and my mother. When I came to New Mexico from Boston, I took a few courses, and found that I really had the talent to do this."
In a former life, Baumann achieved a master's degree in literature and publishing, worked as a copy writer and graphic designer, and dabbled in creative writing as well.
"I started doing cakes for friends back in 2001, and then those friends asked for more and that's when I started doing it full time," she recalls. "I only do custom cakes, so I don't want anyone to be misled by thinking I do other things. Everything is made to order."
Of course, a lot of her work comes from weddings, but the world of cake-making has expanded far beyond traditional wedding cakes. Baumann notes that business is different and perhaps better with the advent of six, count 'em, six, cable television shows about cakes. As the Infomania website puts it, "We are lucky to be living in the Golden Age of Cake Television. With shows like 'Ace of Cakes,' 'Wedding Cake Wars,' 'Amazing Wedding Cakes,' 'Cake Boss' (this one is a 'reality' show no less) and 'Ultimate Cake Off,' there has never been this much flour and sugar on TV."
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Baumann hints that this has certainly had some effect on her business, since brides-to-be are now looking to be more creative in their cake choices. When stumped for ideas or pressed for time, Baumann is the one to turn to.
Baumann pulls out some large photo albums that contain numerous pictures of her work, which ranges from waterfalls to bowling balls, including cakes that lean and even the Alamo and a Wells Fargo stagecoach. For those who are so inclined, there are even a few photos of more personal cakes — ones that are, ahem, anatomically correct, or so we'll have to assume.
No shape or size cake is too big a challenge, as she recalls a recent order from a man with expensive habits. The gent requested a cake made to look like his favorite brand of Scotch, with a sweet "cigar" parked next to it. Another young man wanted a cake that replicated his favorite guitar; the result is truly a bit disconcerting, Baumann made the guitar cake look very much like the real thing.
"I'm a perfectionist," Baumann says, a point she makes several times during the interview, "and I have an eye for detail." That's how she can build a cake that is modeled after the Leaning Tower of Pisa, for example.
"It's how I approach cakes. I am very critical of my work and that helps me to enjoy spending hours to create a pattern for a cake for a customer. I focus in on something, and make it look like I envision it. I can make rose look fake or real."
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Baumann points to a shelf stacked high with "dummies" — Styrofoam pieces in all shapes and sizes that she uses to model the final product. "I've had clients that like using them as a sort of blank canvas to help in creating their idea." She adds that since cakes are now "hot," a lot of new tools have become available.
"It's surprising how much knowledge you need to do this." She notes the process of a "falling" cake that she made, which looks just as it sounds, as if it is tumbling over; a lot of math is involved, she says. Another aspect is weight, which comes into play with filled cakes, which she may allow to set overnight after preparation to make sure that the layers don't turn the cake into pretty pancakes.
Baumann says that she is considering teaching cake-making classes in the future, and wouldn't mind working with an intern who wants to learn the art. Mostly she works alone, although sometimes her mother's florist skills come in handy in crafting frosting flowers.
The cakes are made for eating, of course, not just admiring. Baumann rattles off some of the exotic flavors she has used or created, such as key lime almond, blood orange, coconut pecan, and rum green apple.
She hasn't tried doing cakes with alternative sweeteners yet, such as agave syrup. She says that the expense has made her a bit hesitant to go that route, but in time she will certainly explore it.
"Pricing is done by the amount of decoration and the flavor that the customer wants, but it averages out to about $7 a serving for a wedding cake and $5-$6 for a birthday cake," she explains. "During the consultation, I figure out what the client wants, and later double-check just to make sure. I can make changes, as nothing is set in stone, and can add or subtract things as well. Everything is made fresh the week of the event."
Part of the package includes delivery and set-up, which she often does on-site before an event. This can be particularly nerve-racking, when she is trying to transport parts of cakes and equipment across town. She has fielded and delivered orders as far away as Albuquerque, so Silver City delivery wouldn't be much of a challenge.
But Baumann's artistry begs the question: How difficult is it to spend so many creative hours on a cake only to watch it be destroyed?
Smiling, Baumann replies, "Well, that's part of the fun — just watching that happen. One of the enjoyments is eating the 'temporary installation.'"
You can see more photos of Stephanie Baumann's work at www.mistebar.com/cakeswitchboard.htm You can reach her to set up an appointment for a cake consultation by calling 649-8965 in Las Cruces.
Senior writer Jeff Berg did not have his
cake and eat it, too, while doing this article.