D e s e r t E x p o s u r e
May 2008
Hiking Apacheria
Page: 4By that time, Cochise had already been persuaded, in 1873, by the one-armed Oliver O. Howard, the "Bible General," to settle on a reservation. The Southern Apache Reservation would ultimately surround Apache Pass, the springs and Fort Bowie. Its "Agency House," where legendary Indian agent Tom Jeffords resided, was located no more than 150 yards from Apache Springs, and less than 300 yards from where Cochise had cut Bascom's tent and escaped.
"Bascom got blamed for more than I think was warranted," Bill told me. "There were two other Army officers and an Army doctor who arrived at the Bowie Stage Station during the encounter. They outranked Bascom. Bascom says they held a council and decided to hang the Apache captives."
"He gets blamed for it all," Bill said again, as we ate sandwiches at the only restaurant then open in Bowie, the Subway at the I-10 exit. My face felt windburned, and the eatery's warmth was welcome. In spite of the cold wind and temperature, we'd reached the stage station an hour or so before sunset. As we'd walked back to our trucks, the sun had begun its drop towards the horizon behind us.
As we ate at the Subway, I looked at Bill several times, and saw he was much more energetic, even animated in his demeanor, his voice, his aura. "How do you feel, Bill?" I asked as we wolfed down our sandwiches.
"I feel more powerful," Bill answered. "I always feel more powerful walking out there."
I knew what he meant. I imagine that Cochise did, too — a power that 2d Lieutenant George N. Bascom, Company C, 7th Infantry, might have been wise to recognize, before it was too late.
To visit Fort Bowie, follow I-10 to the Bowie, Ariz., exit. Follow the signs south. It's another 14 miles to the Goodwin Canyon Trailhead to the second Fort Bowie. The 1.5-mile trail was first carved out by Bill Hoy. The route of the Butterfield Stage can be found by driving higher up Goodwin Canyon. Markers for the trail will be seen on the left (east) side of the road ascending. There are several pull offs, where cars can be parked, if visitors wish to hike the stage trail. It can be taken to the station ruins, and hikers can then go on east to the white-washed ruins of the fort. The contact station has items of historical interest, books, etc., and the fort's ruins are laid out to the south and west. Visitors who are handicapped or have other problems walking the 3.0 round-trip miles to the fort and back can approach from the east. The station is not always open, due to the ability of the Park Service to always staff it. For more information, see www.nps.gov/fobo.
This is the 11th in Jerry Eagan's series of "Hiking Apacheria"
articles for Desert Exposure.
Eagan is a retired civil servant and disabled combat infantry veteran of the Vietnam War who hikes Apacheria twice a week. He sells his photos upon request; email him at zennhead@zianet.com