Extreme Makeover
Silver City's completely re-done Adobe Springs restaurant delights, with a whole new look and menu.
The problem with changing an established landmark is that ghosts of the things you loved about the old place may hamper your appreciation of the new. Doubtless Cynthia Shylo and Ladislav Dufek — the new owners of the Adobe Springs restaurant at Piñon Plaza in Silver City — are contending with this, as regular patrons walk in to find their familiar haunt transformed in many ways.
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But stride right by the ghost of Adobe Springs Past lingering in the parking lot — perhaps resembling previous owner Steve May, a cigarette still dangling from its pale lips — and check your memories at the door. There are exciting new things to discover!
The interior is now painted a cheerful buttery yellow. The light wood-topped tables and classy metal-backed chairs are as comfortable as they are attractive. The flooring has been repaired or replaced, the old carpets taking with them that mildew smell that always seemed more prevalent in monsoon season. Fresh and friendly wait staff buzz about the place, and service is prompt and capable.
I'll admit to some disappointment on my first breakfast visit. Though the coffee is adequately strong and the tea water hot enough to actually brew tea from the bag — two noteworthy improvements — my heart sinks to find some old favorites vanished from the menu and a whole bunch of new offerings.
Groping for the familiar, I order huevos rancheros ($6.50), a personal favorite bordering on obsession wherever I have breakfast. The old Adobe Springs' dish was near the top of my list — a well-blended marriage of beans, corn tortilla, eggs and sauce. But the new one — served on crisp corn tortillas with beans on the side — comes off like a first date: stiff and proper, leaving you wondering if there'll be a second meeting.
On the upside, all eggs at the table are cooked perfectly to order. The thick-cut bacon side dish is satisfying and justifies its $4 price tag. Even the short stack of whole wheat pancakes is ample and delicious, though the waitress apologizes for the maple syrup not being "pure" maple. (Note to self: tote my own next time.)
A subsequent breakfast visit introduces me to my new "regular," perhaps — the Migas ($6.50). The scrambled eggs are thoroughly cooked, yet still moist and tender. The fresh slices of jalapeno peppers add delightful heat, tamed by creamy jack and cheddar cheeses. Make it muy authentico by choosing refried beans over the French-fry-like "home fries."
Breakfast burritos ($6.50) are wholly satisfying, with a choice of ham, chorizo, sausage or bacon, even if it seems a bit much to have to pay an additional 95 cents to get the red or green sauce. Shouldn't that be a given?
The Croissant French Toast ($7.25) is composed of two whole croissants, sliced and buttered, with a generous amount of maple syrup and fresh strawberries. The dish turns out to be worth its price; you'll be able to offer a bite to your dining companions. The Smoked Salmon Scramble ($9.75) — just what it sounds like — brings a decidedly New York flavor to the New Mexican table.
Now content with Adobe Springs as a breakfast and brunch spot, I decide to sample lunch — and discover that this is where the place really shines!
Honoring the "Euro" tradition of bigger lunches and lighter dinners, there are some hard-hitting entrees on the lunch menu: Pork Schnitzel ($9.75), homey meatloaf with creamed spinach and mashed potatoes ($8.95) and Roast Pork with sauerkraut, potato salad and beets ($9.75). Maybe a splurge for lunch, but you won't need much dinner. The leftovers you'll take home will probably suffice.
Our Parmesan Crusted Chicken ($10.95) is moist and tasty, served up with chunky-mashed red-skinned potatoes and whole fresh green beans, lightly saut‚ed and with just a kiss of butter. The ample Beet & Roquefort entr‚e salad ($7.50) comes delicately dressed and generously covered with walnut halves, bleu cheese and tender julienne beets; it's the best such salad I've had in years. The coleslaw, made with red cabbage, is fresh and tasty, and the sweet-potato fries are a delightfully different side dish choice. In addition to a zesty gazpacho, the soup du jour ($3.50 cup, $4.50 bowl) today is a jaw-dropping, sweet and velvety carrot-ginger-coconut. Build-Your-Own sandwiches are made from on-site, hand-carved meats ($7.50) or go vegetarian with three fresh or grilled options. Burgers ($6.95) and Hot Pastrami ($7.50) are other choices.
The number of downtown business owners dining around us indicates that the new Adobe Springs is fast becoming a new lunch destination. Yes, you can get in and out in a traditional one-hour lunch break. But if you have the time to linger, and the budget, try dessert. The warmed bread pudding, with a crŠme Anglaise sauce and whipped cream, is delightful, with just the perfect amount of chocolate, and the créme brulee is a hands-down winner, in a perfectly classic version or sophisticated lavender-infused option.
In all, the delightful atmosphere and fresh, innovative menu of the new Adobe Springs chases away all my old ghosts. For others, perhaps Shylo and Dufek should consider giving their restaurant a new name to match its delicious makeover.
— Donna Clayton Lawder
Adobe Springs Restaurant, 1617 Silver Heights Blvd. (Hwy 180), Silver City, 538-3665. Serves breakfast and lunch seven days a week, 7 a.m.-3 p.m.; major credit cards accepted.
